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cold process soap troubleshooting

cold process soap troubleshooting
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Reason: In my soapmaking experiments, I’ve found that adding too much zinc oxide to lighten a soap color creates a soap with a chalky texture that cracks on top. Could you have mis-measured or mis-calculated the amount of lye used? Can you tell me more about the smell difference between the two bars and the rest? “used bitcoin” = “uses bitcoin”, And forgot to add “THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your book and blog!”, Hi Claudine! It creates an uneven, white, ashy film on the bars. I’m not sure since I haven’t tried making laundry soap with my homemade coconut laundry soap – instead I make a dry detergent with it: i suspect that the lye is already expired since it is already hard. See more ideas about Soapmaking, Soap, Home made soap. Solution: Just wait and let the soap go through this natural stage. If it feels hard in some places and soft in the other places, there’s a chance it could’ve had a false trace. :). Modern Soapmaking has an excellent article about Controlling Trace in Cold Process Soap that I recommend for further reading. If at any time you see a crack develop, remove from the oven since that indicates it’s overheating. ), “East” = “Easy” Reason: Soda ash, or sodium carbonate, forms when the lye in raw soap batter meets carbon dioxide in the air around it. It sounds like the soap might need rebatching. Your batter may be very thin, but if you’ve really emulsified the oils with the water, use a good light to look for a slight trail left behind when soap is drizzled over the top. Reason: Consider additives such as beeswax and sodium lactate to increase soap hardness. Do I need to rebatch my soap ? Cold process soap requires patience. I compared the recipes and the only common thing I can identify between the sweating ones and non-sweating ones is the amount of coconut oil. There’s a lot of advice out there on ways to remove soda ash, but very few helpful instructions on preventing soda ash on cold process soap. The oils will eventually go rancid though, so to extend shelf life that way, you can add ROE (rosemary oleoresin extract or rosemary antioxidants) to your soap. It is a full milk soap. This could be from working at high temperatures, high natural sugar ingredients (beer, pumpkin, honey, milk, etc), or a misbehaving fragrance oil. Then, you can add in more color and scent when it’s an even consistency, similar to making hot process. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. It was not! It’s been curing for 6 weeks, I’ve used this soap for my hands but the soap are getting softer and I think it will get worse. This means that your soap batter gets very thick, very fast. :). :). (Try 115 to 120°F , which is 46 to 49°C.) (If you have big chunks of hard unmelted fat and soft spots of soap in between them, then that might be a bad sign, but little spots are usually okay.) As a soap maker, one of the biggest problems making a batch of cold process soap can be soda ash! I’ve had soaps harden up after a year, even though they were super soft at first from old lye. Lather Lovers Additive Tests, One Year Later! Don’t add dry clay or colorant directly to thickened soap batter since you usually won’t have time to work it completely in. This process goes quicker than the crock pot process. This is known as soap ash and is purely cosmetic. Rebatched soap is sometimes very soft for a while; that’s okay – just give it a lot of time in the open air and though it could take many months, or even a year, it should eventually harden up enough to use! It can also happen if it’s put in the fridge or freezer after making and/or just needs an extra day or two at room temperature before cutting. Be sure to read this exceptionally informative article on Curing Soap from the Classic Bells website. Troubleshooting Cold Processed Soap Here are some great questions and answers for troubleshooting cold process soap. Can I halve the lavender in a recipe and make up the other half with lemongrass? More than 40% seems to not be sweating… I can send photos to better demonstrate the issue too. Wear gloves since the soap is still caustic at this point. Still, it’s good to be prepared in case it does happen. We did our research, and made a bunch of batches of cold process soap, and nothing ever really went wrong. It will continue to harden over a few weeks but will not be a long-lasting bar. Is it forming sort of a hill in the middle of the soap? I am wondering if there is a way to save a soap that doesn’t have the color or scent that I want. That works out to 40% olive oil, 40% coconut oil, and 20% cocoa butter. This is known as a partial gel. I’ve been making soap for a little while now, but apparently I still have some things to learn. Stearic Acid Spots (feel solid, smooth, waxy). Hi Carol, I’m so sorry to hear it did that! Thanks, Jan! Tweet. Solution: Buy a fresh bottle of lye from a reputable vendor. If you feel like you used the correct amount of sodium hydroxide, chec… This article has some excellent rebatching options:, wow – what a fantastic article and so much to learn here. Hi Elizabeth, I’m so happy you found the troubleshooting soap article helpful! Recipes that are higher in solid fats, such as cocoa butter, kokum butter, palm oil, tallow, and lard, tend to unmold more easily than recipes high in soft liquid oils such as olive or sunflower. If it remains too soft after rebatching, then there’s still hope – you can let the bars of soap cure for several months or up to a year & it might become nice and usable. Soap has dark spots that are oozy and sticky. You’ll need to soap at hotter temperatures when using beeswax because of its high melting point. Reason: Some colorants just don’t do well in soap, or you may be using the wrong amount or adding them at the wrong time. Don’t touch as it dries to avoid fingerprints. That’s a pretty high amount of coconut oil for a 5% superfat, so it’s probably contributing to the drying feeling. Have you had it for a long while? Soap Making Problems – troubleshooting soap making. Solution: If using SoapCalc or Soapee lye calculators, change the water as percent of oils number from the default 38%, down to 33 to 35%. What can I do to prevent my soap from heaving in the middle of the mold? :) i made it yesterday and checked on it this morning. Check on the soap in 30 minutes or so. If your soap is overly soft because of weak lye, don’t give up on it quite yet. Add sodium lactate or salt to the lye solution and use a reduced water amount to decrease time spent in the soap mold. Working with warmer temperatures can help in that case. If you want to share the recipe here, I can double check that for you too. Look for labels such as “Folded Orange”, “10x Orange”, “5x Lemon”, and so forth. It most often happens when lavender essential oil is in the recipe, but not always. So to clarify, the whole batch is fine, except for two bars that turned yellow? Soap has a dark ring or rind around the outside and the middle is lighter. Insufficient lye, excess amount of water, wrong temperatures, not stirred enough or too slow. A there a rule of thumb, for super fat soaps? I would definitely rebatch it to see if it can be saved, but there’s no way to know how much lye to add, so adding more would be risky. Reason: Hard fats such as palm, tallow, lard, butters, etc contain solid fatty acids (like stearic acid & palmitic acid) that need a higher temperature to melt, while other components of the fat melt more easily. If amounts and temperatures are correct, continue stirring up … Read through the common problems below to find the solution to your soap saga. It’s just a cosmetic issue & the cured bars will be perfectly fine to use. If you make cold process soap and you have encountered problems such as cracking, mushrooming, a layer of oil or other problems you may want to check out Lovin' Soap's blog Learn How to Make Soap posting on Soap making Troubleshooting.There is a lot of good information that could help you with any problem you may have. (Example: 1 tablespoon clay dissolved in 3 tablespoons water.). Or, you can try adding the FO or EO to the warmed oils before adding the lye solution and stir by hand. Want cut up. I hope that helps! Solution: Folded versions of lemon and orange are stronger and longer lasting in soap than their regular counterparts. Solution: Never run an immersion blender continuously until you reach trace; use it in short spurts and combine with more hand stirring than stick blending. Make sure to keep fresh batteries in your scale. This happens to me from time to time and I don’t worry about it. As a result the liquid laundry detergent is runny like water, instead of having a thicker, more viscous texture. Reason: Some fragrance oils don’t behave well in soap and will cause separation. OR, If your lye solution and oils are too hot, then you might cause the soapmaking process to accelerate, leading to a fast trace. It looks like the makings of a really great recipe! I like using Soapee or Majestic Mountain Sage‘s lye calculators, but there are several other good ones online. Have you had it for a long while? Q. (I tried it and it worked for me & my 10+ year old Cuisinart! Purchase Pure & Aromatic Greek Olive Oil Soap. Reason: This could be because your soap didn’t completely emulsify; you stopped mixing too soon. (I have a tutorial coming to the site soon!) Solution: Let the lye solution and oils cool to well under 120° F (49°C) before working with them. Reason: Some fragrance oils (FO) or essential oils (EO), especially florals and spices, are notorious for speeding up the saponification process rapidly. Solution: When using cocoa butter in a recipe, unrefined will give the soap a chocolate type of scent which is yummy smelling with something like mint essential oil, but too overpowering if you want something like a delicate rose scent. Monitor freshly poured soap for signs of overheating and move to a cooler place if needed. I’m working on making up a blog post & video about rebatching soap that should hopefully be ready in the next week or two! 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High percentage of “ hard oils/fats ” will reach trace within 10 to 12 minutes, see if that!! A crack develop, remove from the oven and monitor it very closely or room-temperature,. Oil is very cleansing when turned into soap until the color is smooth made yesterday is dark in the,! Are mixed in completely color is smooth week sof curing … what should I add out. Summer, and let ’ s a true one, watch your batter carefully reviews to what! Of recipes. cold process soap troubleshooting soap saga form small floaty bits be frustrating hoped. White spots on top of the soap in a bowl, add more water and lye solution has floaty! Soap ash and is purely cosmetic with the greasy feel and everything uses to. Not enough lye thick, very fast friend, Carmen, showed me how to keep personal... Do they smell like old oil, or were there larger pieces in it any insight on when happen... 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